Used tailgate prices

Across 177 vehicle-specific guides with current pricing, used tailgate guide medians run from $210 to $2,395, with a typical median of $750. Condition grade, mileage, and fitment move the price within that range.

Usually, yes. Buying a used tailgate from a salvage yard or auto recycler typically costs a fraction of the new tailgate replacement cost at a dealership. Compare the grade-level medians above against any replacement quote you've received, and remember our figures exclude shipping and installation labor.

Salvage yards, junkyards, pick-and-pull lots, and online used parts marketplaces all sell used tailgates. Our index tracks asking prices nationally, so you can benchmark a local quote against the market range before you buy.

Expect to pay toward the upper half of the $210–$2,395 range for a grade-A tailgate with low mileage. Check the grade table above for the current grade-level medians, and confirm whether shipping and any core charge are included in the quote.

They can be — condition grade is the key. Grade A parts come off low-mileage vehicles with little to no damage, grade B is average, and grade C or ungraded parts are the gamble. Buy grade A or B from a yard that offers a return window or warranty, and confirm the mileage of the donor vehicle before paying. The grade-level medians above show what each tier should cost.

Yes. A truck tailgate is another name for a tailgate. Other common names include trunk lid. The prices on this page apply regardless of what it's called in your region or by your mechanic.

A tailgate is a drop-down or swing-out rear panel typically found on pickup trucks, hinged at the bottom or side. A liftgate is a hatch-style rear door, usually hinged at the top, found on SUVs, hatchbacks, and minivans, that swings upward to open. The two use completely different hinge and latch hardware and aren't interchangeable — match the replacement to your vehicle's actual rear-door style.

Inspect the sheet metal for rust along the bottom hemmed edge, body filler repairs, or structural creases from rear-end collisions. Check that latch mechanisms, glass hinges, and wiring harness boot pass-throughs are intact and undamaged.

Verify the donor vehicle's model year, body style, trim level, and option features like integrated backup cameras, power liftgate actuators, or heated glass defrost lines. While sheet metal outer dimensions may match across years, interior wiring harness connectors often change between production updates.

Finding a salvage tailgate in your vehicle's exact color code saves significantly on paint and body shop prep labor. Even if minor polishing is required to match faded paint, buying pre-painted factory sheet metal provides superior corrosion resistance over aftermarket panels.

Salvage tailgates are frequently sold as assembly units including the rear window, internal wiper motor, handle, and latch hardware, though bare shells are also available. Always ask the salvage yard for an exact breakdown of included trim pieces and electronic accessories.

Converting from a manual tailgate to a used power liftgate is extremely difficult because it requires extra body wiring harnesses, control modules, pinch sensors, and computer recoding. It is best to replace like-for-like unless you are prepared for extensive custom electrical modification.

Loosen the hinge bolts slightly and use body shims to adjust gap lines evenly between the quarter panels before tightening to spec. Proper alignment prevents water leaks around the weatherstripping seal and eliminates wind noise or latch binding while driving.